Install front wheel (properly)
Before you start make sure your forks are set to the same height and the triple clamp pinch bolts are torqued to the manufacturers specification; usually 9 to 16 ft-lbs.
Ensure all axle pinch bolts are loose, align the wheel so the disc slots into the calliper, and insert the axle.
It should slide through by hand but may require a light tap with a soft hammer.
The next step is to tighten the axle nut before you tighten the axle pinch bolts.
You can then torque the left side (clutch lever side) axle pinch bolts to spec; usually 12 to 16 ft-lbs.
Finally, you'll need to align the right fork leg. Start this by pumping up your brakes (incase you had spread the disc pads).
Once you are certain the lug is able to move freely on it's own, compress the front forks a few times. This allows the fork leg to self align perfectly on the axle.
Torque up the right side (throttle side) pinch bolts; usually 12 to 16 ft-lbs.
Double check both sides and axle nut.
Adjust your chain
An improperly adjusted motorcycle chain not only increases chain and sprocket wear, but can drastically reduce rear wheel horsepower. For those reasons, it is important to maintain the proper chain tension at all times. Here are a few tips to make the job a little easier.
Place the motorcycle on a stand, allowing the rear wheel to spin freely.
Loosen the real axle nut and the chain adjusting lock nuts.
Gently “snug” the chain by wedging a rag between the chain and rear sprocket and rolling the wheel backwards. This will ensure that the axle is fully clamped against the adjustment blocks.
How much slack? Adjust the chain tension evenly so that there is proper slack as recommended in your owner’s manual. Slack of 30–40mm is typical for streetbikes, while dirt bikes may need 35–50mm. - Check the chain slack with the snugging rag removed.
Where do I measure it from? Normally you take the measurement from the back of the chain guide that runs on top of the swingarm.
Once your chain is adjusted to the correct slack, Firmly tighten the axle nut according to the manufacturer’s torque specifications.
Tighten the lock nuts on your chain adjusters, and you’re finished!
Bleed your forks
It's no secret you should bleed the forks on a dirt bike regularly considering they accumulate internal air pressure during use.
Which Screw is the Bleeder?
Looking down on the top of the forks you will see two screws. The one that is slightly off centre is the screw for bleeding the forks.
Before doing anything it's important to ensure the area around the bleeder is clean and free of any dirt or water as you don't want anything getting inside the forks.
Undo the bleed screw but make sure when doing so, the front wheel is off the ground and stays so until you have the screw back in the hole and tight. You may hear a little "psssshh" as the air is released, and sometimes you may get a little splutter of oil - dont worry, this is normal. Reinsert the bleed screw making sure the O-ring has remained on the screw. - ALL DONE.
(after forks have been compressed a couple of times to centralise axle)
(this ensures the axle blocks stay tight on the adjusters)